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    It’s time to build another 3″ quad! This time I will be using parts mostly from HGLRC – the first time I am checking out their products.


    Here is my last 3″ build if you are interested.

    Parts List

    Here are the parts I will be using in this build:

    HGLRC FD445 Stack

    This is a 20x20mm stack, however the 4in1 ESC is still quite large in size due to the beefy MOSFET it uses (rated for 45A). The solder pads are well sized and easy to solder. The FC and ESC’s are designed to be used together, thus plug and play with a cable. Though the pins are also broken out to solder pads so you can use them with FC or ESC if you want. Very flexible.

    The Specs are:

    Forward F4 MINI FC

    • CPU: STM32F405R6T6
    • MPU: MPU6000-SPI
    • Input Voltage: 2-6S
    • Firmware: Betaflight OMNIBUSF4V6
    • BEC Output: 5V@3A
    • Size: 25.0×25.0mm
    • Weight:4.7g

    Forward 45A 4in1 MINI ESC

    • Firmware: BLHELI_32
    • Input Voltage: 2-6S
    • Constant Current: 45A(4S) or 35A (6S)
    • Peak Current: 55A (5s)
    • No BEC Output
    • Size: 31.7×36.5mm
    • Weight: 10.8g

    The stack comes with the following accessories:

    • 220uF 35V capacitor
    • 14AWG XT60 pigtail
    • A bag of o-ring (for soft mounting)
    • Nylon standoffs and screws

    This stack is small enough for micro builds like 3″, but since it’s rated for 45A on 4S, and supports up to 6S, you can use it on 5″ builds as well! It makes a good choice because of the light weight.

    Great versatility when it comes to the specs, not so much when it comes to the accessories.

    It makes sense that it comes with 14AWG XT60 pigtail because someone might use it on a 4S 5″ build, or even 6S! But then why does it only include a 35V 220uF capacitor, which is fine for a 4S 3″ build, but clearly too small for a 6S build?

    It would be nice if they included an extra 16AWG XT30 pigtail for 3″ builds, and an extra 50V 1000uF capacitor for 4S and 6S 5″ builds.

    The pin-out / wiring diagram is printed on a very small card, I wish it was done on a larger piece of paper because it’s very hard to read.

    At first I wasn’t sure what the o-rings are for, there are so many of them! They are for soft mounting the FC like this. HGLRC recommends using 3 o-rings between the FC and 4in1 ESC, and another o-ring between the FC and nut.

    HGLRC FD-1408 3600KV Motors

    For a 4S 3″ build, the FD-1408 3600KV motors from HGLRC are a good option. However the mounting screws that they come with are barely long enough for the HGLRC Arrow frame I am going to use. It would be nice if they are 1mm longer for more solid grip, or include screws of different length perhaps.

    Naked bottom design, single-strand motor winding.

    The magnets seem to be very strong, as the motor feels very “notchy” when spun by hand.


    The Arrow 3″ hybrid frame from HGLRC is a slick design. Not the lightest though at 41g for a 3″ frame. But this is mostly for functionality and due to the thick carbon fibre sheet used.

    The arms are replaceable and sandwiched by two 2mm carbon fibre plates. The arms are 4mm thick and the top plate is 2mm thick.

    They make it really easy to work with by having nut inserts in the bottom plate.


    Watch out for the arms, the front and back arms are meant to be different! I was so confused the first time I was assembling it. I really don’t understand the point of this, in my opinion it’s kind of unnecessarily complicated, why not just use the same arms?

    Since there is no assembly manual, you just have to play with it a few times until you get it right. I don’t think there are right or wrong ways of doing it as long as you are happy.

    If you have been in the hobby long enough, It kind of looks like a “dead-cat” config. An arm layout that was more popular back in 2013-14.

    Also watch out for the slots in the bottom plate for inserting the camera side plates. I realized I have it the wrong way round, since I wanted to have the “wider” arms to be the front, so I have “less props” in the camera’s view. Again, not sure why they didn’t just make the bottom plate cut-out symmetric!

    The frame kit comes with long M2 steel bolts for your 20x20mm FC stack (30mm long to be exact). These are long enough for holding 3 boards – 4in1 ESC, FC and VTX.

    The blue standoffs are 25mm long, taking M2 screws as well, making the max stack height 25mm.

    The arms should be mounted this way in order to get the battery strap through between the bottom plates.


    First thing I did was soldering the receiver to the FC, and bind it to my radio. Because it’s an F4 FC, I have to connect the uninverted SmartPort from the R-XSR and to an UART on the FC.

    I will be mounting the RX at the very bottom of the FC stack, right under the 4in1 ESC.

    You are supposed to use nylon standoffs under the 4in1 ESC, but I am doing things slightly differently here. I am replacing them with some o-rings, and I will use the nylon standoffs between the FC and ESC.

    Both the VTX and FC are powered off the 5V from the FC. Since it’s rated for 3A, it should be more than enough.

    I will be mounting the VTX on top of the FC with some heavy duty double-sided foam tape. The antenna will be mounted directly on the VTX, and I will strap it to one of the standoffs for durability.

    Finished! Here are Build Pics

    The finished quad weighs 155g without battery. The frame is actually big enough to run 3.5″ props if you wish.

    It’s a roomy frame and the components I chose fit comfortably. I think VTX with 20x20mm mounting holes would work too, probably even cleaner as you can mount it on top of the FC.

    I didn’t use their 3D printed antenna mount.

    First of off, it’s not a good idea to cover your antenna with TPU mount as it “de-tunes” the antenna (changes its resonate frequency and affect its performance). The RX antenna mount is quite nice, but I didn’t use it and continued to use the good old zip-tie / heatshrink trick.

    I like how the blue camera is matching the frame and the motors colours. I think HGLRC should replace those side camera plates with TPU mount. Not only it’s going to be easier to assemble, they can also reduce jello in the video.

    HGLRC Mefisto 226 Drone-Slim Arm Frame Max to Support 6S

    HGLRC Mefisto 226 Drone-Slim Arm Frame Max to Support 6S

    A FPV drone most for professional pilot to adapt to hight speed racing.
    Mefisto Frame designed by Rotorama(Czekh Pilot team).The drone comple built by HGLRC team.

    Max to support 6 S Lipo battery with 4 version PNP (3-4S) ,BNF(3-4S) ,PNP(5-6S)and BNF(5-6S).

    2207 Forward new black motor also update new design with bottom screw to replace e chip design which more stable and durable .

     Runcam Swift 2 offer a better vision for pilot in the flight.
    You can view these youtube viewer to know more about Mefisto 226 Drone.

    View more here,








    IM SO SORRY GRANGER!!! HGLRC MEFISTO flight review、  

    Test Flight

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    Unbox Test Flight  


    HGLRC Mefisto 6S BNF Race Drone - How Fast Can It Go?  

    Parts Test Flight  

    Gal Kremer


    HGLRC Mefisto - Full Review  

    Parts Test Flight

    Wanna enjoy a high speed flight ?

    Get it here

    Mefisto 226 Drone.


    HGLRC XJB145-Spectacular Micro FPV Racing Drone Ever?

    HGLRC XJB145-Spectacular Micro FPV Racing Drone Ever?


    Channel Title Link Content
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    THIS TINY DRONE DOES 87MPH!! WHAT???   Test Flight
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    HGLRC XJB 145 is a 3" 4S BEAST! - 100% Honest Review & Flights   Part Test Flight
    Albert Kim  


    HGLRC XJB-145 with Gemfan Flash 3052 Props   Part Test Flight


    3 Inches Is all You Need! XJB-145   Part Test Flight
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    HGLRC XJB-145MM Best Mini RTF Quadcopter Part Test Flight
    Culture FPV  


    HGLRC XJB 145, un monstre de 3 pouces     Part Test Flight
    Dustin Dunnill  




    HGLRC XJB 145 Micro FPV Race Drone Review - Unboxing, Flight / CRASH Test!, Pros & Cons   Part Test Flight
    RC Escape  


    HGLRC XJB - 145 145mm Micro FPV Racer   Part Test Flight
    Setting & maintain
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    tronage   HGLRC XJB 145 - Part 1: Unboxing & Receiver Install   Receiver Install
    HGLRC XJB 145 vtx - setting it up   vtx setting  

    Play list Of

    XJB 145 Drone




    HGLRC XJB - Betaflight Setup / How-To (useful for other quads too)   Betaflight Setup
    HGLRC XJB ULTIMATE PID Tune with Gemfan 3052 props and Tattu 850mah 75c 4s Pack!   XJB ULTIMATE PID Tune
    How I fixed my HGLRC XJB 145 NO GYRO Accelerometer issue     NO GYRO Accelerometer issue  



    FrSky XM+ Installation to HGLRC XJB 145 quad Tutorial - CycloneFPV FrSky XM+ Installation

    HGRLC Batman 220 Drone— Update Camera and VTX to Get Better Images For You

    HGRLC Batman 220 Drone— Update Camera and VTX to Get Better Images For You

    Batman220 FPV Drone with the great 2306 2450KV motors, Batman 220 frame and 60A 4 in 1 ESC, Airbus F4 Flight control.

    Now Batman 220 FPV Racing Drone has updated ELF 600TVL to new 2000 TVL Aurora FPV Camera. And will use Forward VTX to replace GTX585 VTX to get a better image.

    HGLRC Batman 220 Drone smooth flight and strong performance have impressed many professional pilots. We collect some popular Youtube reviews videos for your reference.





    Drone Camps RC



    HGLRC Batman220 - FIRST LOOK, Review, Flights, 4,5,6S TESTED

    Brief introduction

    Test Flight

    TOP 3 FPV RACE Quads to buy in 2018

    Compare of 3 quads




    Goodbye Hawk! HELLO BATMAN220! KING OF BNF's is HERE

    Test Flight

     XJB's big brother is here AND IT"S AMAZING - HGLRC BATMAN220


    Test Flight


    FPV Reviews: The HGLRC Batman 220, supplied by HGLRC



    HGLRC Batman 220 - flying it with a GoPo

    Test Flight


    Albert Kim

     HGLRC Batman220 5-inch Racing Drone Review

    Test Flight



    HGLRC BATMAN220 - Worth The Extra

    Test Flight


    Gal Kremer



    HGLRC Batman220 - Review, Setup & Flight

    Test Flight


    Culture FPV


    HGLRC Batman 220, l'emax Hawk 5 Killer?

    Test Flight




    After view these videos ,why don’t take batman 220 FPV Drone to begin your flight?

    View More here: